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Soon to be a Master Gardener

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Mid-September, I attended the introduction meeting for the Master Gardeners program of Santa Clara County. I've been gardening in the back yard ever since Chris Doyle tore up the concrete and I dumped 12 cubic yards of compost on the spot five years ago, and container gardening for years and years before that. Mom had a lot to do with my green thumbs, though I'm sure she takes no credit for the bitter zucchini incident.

Speaking of bitter zucchini, during my MG interview, which is part of the application process, I mentioned I heard of the MG program through the local co-op, which I contacted at Mom's suggestion when I had the bitter zucchini in the yard. One of the women interviewing turned to me and asked me when the incident happened. When I answered two summers ago, she grinned in delight, then exclaimed I was famous, everyone knew the bitter zucchini story in the office. Everyone!

Great! Not the way I really want to be famous, but I guess it's better than, say, Mrs. Smith going in and saying, yeah, she's the one who was poisoned by the bitter zucchini.

After finally processing that ginormous stack of mail, I found the envelope with the letter of acceptance into the program. I'm very excited. I'll finally learn the "right" way to plant a garden and (my trees will like this) prune a tree.

Megan asked if she needs to address me as Master now. I giggled and said no, but I get to put an "M.G." after my name when I'm done.

Master Gardening

Book page

Master Gardening resources

Companion Gardening explanation

Book page

From: http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/factsheets/ecogardening/complant.html

Companion Planting, Ecogardening Factsheets - Cornell Gardening Resources

Companion Planting
Ecogardening Factsheet #10, Winter 1994

Most people think of plants as very passive organisms. They grow almost unperceptively, and only once a year do they flower or produce edible products. However, plants are very active in ways that are not so obvious to the casual observer. For example, plants change the chemistry of the soil, and influence the types of microorganisms that grow there. They actively compete with other plants for space. Some will poison their neighbor's offspring to maintain a competitive advantage, while others change the environment in ways that benefit other species. Plants wage a constant battle with insects, relying heavily on chemical warfare.

Naturalists have known about these properties of plants for thousands of years. For example, about 2,000 years ago the Roman agriculturalist, Varro, declared "Large walnut trees close by, make the border of the farm sterile." Chemicals in oak leaves retard the development of insects that feed on them. Some insecticides are derived from plants; examples include rotenone, sabadilla and ryania. But not all effects of plants are deleterious on other organisms. Alfalfa and clover enrich the soil with nitrogen that they capture from the air. Certain trees move groundwater to the soil surface where shallow-rooted plants can grow even under droughty conditions. Groups of plants which grow well together are called "companions."

Perhaps the best historical example of companion planting is the "Three Sisters" in which corn, beans, and squash are planted together in a hill. Native Americans developed this system to provide food for a balanced diet from a single plot of land. Each of the crops is compatible with the others in some way. The tall corn stalks provide a support structure for the climbing beans. The beans do not compete strongly with the corn for nutrients since as legumes, they can supply their own nitrogen. Squash provides a dense ground cover that shades out many weeds which otherwise would compete with the corn and beans.

Modern agriculture tends to rely heavily upon specialized machinery and synthetic inputs, and have rendered companion systems such as the "Three Sisters" obsolete. Obviously, it would be difficult to harvest corn, beans and squash simultaneously with a machine, especially when they are not planted separately in rows. However, interest is growing in using these special properties of plants to our advantage when growing food. Home gardeners, unencumbered by the need for specialized equipment or row crop production, have rediscovered some of the beneficial interrelationships among plants. This knowledge, coupled with a long tradition of folklore, is being utilized to improve home garden production.

How can you use these special plant properties?

Selecting a cover crop

Certain cover crops concentrate specific nutrients in their tissues. Deeply rooted plants move nutrients from the subsoil to the aboveground parts, and when the plants decompose, the nutrients become available for subsequent crops. Potassium levels can be increased significantly by selecting a good preplant cover crop. Buckwheat, grain rye, and sudangrass are good preplant covers.

Plants in the legume family are capable of gathering unusable nitrogen from the air and converting it into usable nitrogen in root nodules, with the help of special bacteria. Legumes increase soil fertility as they decompose, thus releasing the stored nitrogen. An alfalfa sod that is plowed under will provide 150 to 200 lbs of nitrogen per acre the following year, 60 to 80 lbs the year after, and 30 to 40 lbs the year after that. In fact, any cover crop that is plowed under will release nitrogen as the crop decomposes. This is the origin of the term "green manure."

Many plants produce substances that are toxic to other plants. The study of this phenomenon is called "allelopathy." Varro's observation was explained by the discovery of a substance called juglone - a natural herbicide produced by the roots of walnut trees. Many plants have allelopathic effects including sunflowers, cucumbers, oats, alfalfa, rye and tobacco. When these crops are planted prior to other crops, weed pressure is reduced.

Enhancing environmental conditions for growth

Maple trees can move groundwater from their lower roots to the upper roots, where it is exuded into the soil. Herbaceous plants can use this groundwater when conditions are dry. Shade tolerant plants often grow better under the trees than away from them.

Certain garden plants grow better if provided with some shade, while others need to be elevated above the ground to capture sunlight. Leaf lettuce grows well in the shade provided by taller crops. Rhododendrons and azaleas thrive under pine trees. Corn growers will often seed clover between rows so it will germinate after the corn is established. The clover grows throughout the fall and winter after the corn is harvested, increasing soil nitrogen when it decomposes the following spring.

Grasses often are planted between rows of perennial crops such as fruit trees. The grass alleys cool the soil, prevent erosion, improve water penetration, exclude weeds, and harbor beneficial insects.

Reducing pest damage

Most plants produce defensive chemicals that help fend off insects and diseases. These chemicals may be insect poisons, feeding deterrents or have fungicidal properties. The roots of some French and African marigolds contain a substance which is toxic to certain types of nematodes. Nematodes are soil inhabiting microscopic roundworms that damage many species of plants. Certain nematodes can be eliminated from a site by growing a thick crop of marigolds for one season prior to planting the vegetable or fruit crop, or by interplanting marigolds between crop rows.

Destructive insects often locate their food by smell. Many plants, especially culinary herbs, produce strong scents which may confuse insect pests looking for a host to feed on. Garden vegetable plants such as garlic, onions, chives, and herbs such as catnip, horehound, wormwood, basil, tansy, and mints all produce scents which seem to repel insects or mask the scents which attract insects. A certain level of insect protection can be achieved by carefully interplanting some of these as companions to vegetables.

Many insect pests have specific food preferences while others feed on a wide assortment of hosts. Even those species which feed on a wide variety of hosts, such as Japanese beetles, have preferences for certain plants. It is possible to plant a preferred host as a trap crop near the plant that is being protected. Once the insects have settled on the "trap" crop, they can be killed periodically by spraying, without having to treat the protected plants.

Many insects are helpful because they eat or parasitize harmful insects. Most species of wasps and spiders are beneficial as are ground beetles, praying mantids, lady bugs, pirate bugs, and several species of flies. It is possible to attract beneficial insects by planting flowers near the garden. Dill, parsley, carrot, coriander, angelica, and parsnip feature flat topped clusters of small flowers that have strong fragrances. They also seem to attract large numbers of beneficial insects, particularly predatory wasps and flies. This characteristic makes them good candidates for companion planting.

Some Practical Steps

Avoid monoculture in terms of space and time. A one-hundred foot long row of broccoli presents a large target for a cabbage moth that is flying by, but the same number of cabbage plants scattered over several thousand square feet, and interplanted with other crops, is less obvious and attractive to the insect. Pests which routinely plague large, commercial plantings of crops may never be a problem in the diversified home garden.

Know thy friends and avoid killing them inadvertently. Learn to recognize beneficial insects as well as the pests, and note which plants are attractive to beneficial insects. Less than 1% of insects are garden pests.

Plant dill, marigolds, chives, onions, parsley, basil and other flowers throughout the garden. Allow parsley, carrot and celery to remain in the ground over the winter. They will produce flowers the second season and attract beneficial insects. Also, plant strong smelling herbs among vegetable crops.

Try some combinations that folklore says are effective companions. Chives could be planted at the base of roses to repel aphids, garlic could be planted at the base of peach trees to repel borers; basil planted among tomatoes may repel tomato hornworms; nasturtiums grown near squash may repel squash bugs; tomatoes planted among asparagus may repel asparagus beetles; and marigolds, mint, thyme, or chamomile may repel cabbage moths. Radishes make excellent trap crops for cucumber beetles among squash and cucumbers. Radishes also attract flea beetles when planted near cole crops. Garden borders planted with low growing thyme or lavender may deter slugs. Tansy and pennyroyal repel ants.

Observe your plantings carefully, and write down combinations that seem to work for pest control and growth enhancement. Communicate your observations with others. Try to replicate your observations or have others try the same combinations. Testimonials that are shared by many observers often turn out to be valid. Scientists have not spent much time looking at these relationships among plants and their community; furthermore, the number of possible combinations is enormous. You can be the first one to discover a new set of compatible plants!

Bad Science

Unfortunately, much of the popular literature that discusses companion planting is based upon some very bad science, in particular, the "sensitive crystallization method" which was originated by Dr. Ehrenfried E. Pfeiffer in the 1930's. Dr. Pfeiffer was a student of Dr. Rudolf Steiner, the founder of "Biodynamics." The sensitive crystallization method utilizes chromatography to discover why plants make good or bad companions.

Dr. Pfeiffer made chromatograms of many different plants, both individually and in combination. He concluded that mixtures of plants which formed clear and bright chromatograms were mutually beneficial, while mixtures that formed cloudy or dull chromatograms were antagonistic. Thus, the notion that "carrots love tomatoes" but "beans dislike fennel" is based upon an analytical laboratory procedure and not on direct observation of the plants in nature. No legitimate scientist believes that this method can determine compatibility among plant species.

Dr. Pfeiffer also made chromatograms of many other substances including chemical fertilizers and compost. According to Louise Riotte in her book Carrots Love Tomatoes, "the chemical (fertilizer) yielded chromatograms that were dull and lifeless but the ones made from the compost were brilliant with color." Ms. Riotte continues by asking "Could this have been because of the living microorganisms continued in the compost? This supposition seems logical."

Unfortunately, the supposition is not the least bit logical from a scientific viewpoint, and has no relevance for determining plant nutritional needs. It is this type of bad science that has created a hostility between the scientific community and many proponents of biodynamic gardening.

Prepared by:

Robert Beyfuss, Progr Ldr A&NR, Greene County Cooperative Extension, Education Ctr, HCR3, Box 906, Cairo, NY 12413-9503

Marvin Pritts, Associate Professor, Department of Fruit and Vegetable Science, Cornell Univeristy, Ithaca, NY 14853




� Copyright, Department of Horticulture, Cornell University.

Website design: Craig Cramer

Mention of trade names and commercial products is for educational purposes; no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by Cornell Cooperative Extension or Cornell University is implied. Pesticide recommendations are for informational purposes only and manufacturers' recommendations change. Read the manufacturers' instructions carefully before use. Cornell Cooperative Extension and Cornell University assumes no responsibility for the use of any pesticide or chemicals. Some of the links provided are not maintained by Cornell Cooperative Extension and Cornell University. Cornell Cooperative Extension and Cornell University are not responsible for information on these websites. They are included for information purposes only and no endorsement by Cornell Cooperative Extension or Cornell University is implied. Cornell Cooperative Extension provides equal program and employment opportunities.

Companion Gardening

Book page

Various pages on companion gardening.

Companion Planting 1

Book page

From: http://www.gardentoad.com/companionplants.html

Companion planting probably began when early gardeners noticed that some plants seemed to grow best when planted next to certain other plants. There is some science to back up this lore, but many still consider companion planting to be mostly unproven.
Of course, gardeners can always try it to see if it works!

Research into companion planting folklore shows that there are, in fact, naturally occurring compounds in plants that act as pest repellents, or that attract predators of pests.




COMPANION PLANTS
Companion plants are used to confuse or repel plant pests, to encourage the growth of other plants and to act as a trap for pests and parasites. "Trap" crops draw harmful insects away from the plants you are trying to grow.

Companion plants may also be used a a "nurse" crop--to provide food or possibly an attractive home or habitat for beneficial insects.

Companion plants may produce odors that confuse and deter pests, or their scent may mask or hide a crop from pests.

The table below lists some commonly held beliefs about the uses of companion plants.

Plant Name Companion to: What It Is Believed To Do (Good & Bad)
Allium--flowering onions, chives, garlic, leek, onion and shallot Roses, carrots, tomato, fruit trees, other vegetables Repels aphids, weevils, carrot flies, moles, fruit tree borers; controls rust flies and some nematodes; protects tomatoes against red spiders. Protects roses from black spot, mildew and aphids. BUT is believed to inhibit growth of peas & beans.
Basil Tomato, asparagus Repels aphids, flies, mosquitos and mites; helps control insect pests such as tomato hornworms, asparagus beetles, and disease.
Bush beans (Butter, green, snap, string,wax) Beets, carrots,cucumber, corn, eggplant, potato,strawberry Encourages growth of companion plant. Adds nitrogen to the soil. Green beans protect eggplant from the Colorado potato beetle.
Borage Tomato, strawberry, fruit orchards Repels tomato worms. Adds potassium, calcium and other minerals to soil. Attracts honeybees.
Broad beans Corn Add nitrogen to soil--which is needed by corn. Bean vines grow up corn stalks, thus anchoring corn more firmly and the vines discourage racoons.
Chamomile Cabbage, onions Improves growth and flavor--but plant only one plant every 150 feet or so.
Castor Bean Vegetables Repels moles and plant lice. CAUTION: All parts of the castor bean plant are poisonous, especially the seeds!
Catnip Eggplant Fresh catnip steeped in water and sprinkled on plants will drive away flea beetles.
Celery Cabbage, leeks, tomato, cauliflower Improves growth of companion plants. Repels white cabbage butterflies.
Chervil Radish Improves growth and flavor.
Chive Carrots Improves growth and flavor.
Coriander Vegetables Repels aphids. Attracts bees.
Cucumber Corn, beans, peas, radish, sunflowers Improves growth. Vines growing with corn help anchor corn and discourage racoons.
Datura Various plants Deters Japanese beetles. CAUTION: All parts of the Datura plant are poisonous!
Dill Cabbage Improves growth. Blossoms attract honeybees.
Fennel Most plants dislike fennel--so plant it away from the vegetable garden. Its foliage and flowers may attract beneficials.
Geranium Cabbage, cron, grapes, roses Repels cabbage worms, Japanese beetles.
Horseradish Potato Encourages growth. May repel Colorado potato beetles and blister beetles.
Hyssop Cabbage, grapes Improves growth, deters cabbage moth.
Leek Carrots, celery, onions Improves growth, repels carrot flies.
Marigold Tomato, potato, strawberry, beans, roses Encourages growth, deters Mexican bean beetles and other pests.. Discourages harmful nematodes, if they are grown for several seasons in the ground in areas that have nematode infestations.
Mint Tomato, cabbage Improves flavor and growth
Mustard Cabbage, cauliflower, radish, Brussels sprouts, turnips, collards, kohlrabi Plant mustard as a trap crop. It attracts numerous insect pests. Remove and destroy it before your main crops can be harmed.
Nasturtiums Cucumber, Squash, other vegetables, fruit trees. Repels aphids,cucumber beetles,whiteflies and squash bugs. Acts as trap crop for aphids. Repels borers near fruit trees.
Onion Cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli,beets, tomato, lettuce, strawberry, chamomile, summer savory Repels aphids, weevils, carrot flies, moles, fruit tree borers; controls rust flies and some nematodes; protects tomatoes against red spiders. BUT is believed to inhibit growth of peas & beans.
Oregano Broccoli Repels cabbage butterfly.
Parsley Asparagus carrots, tomato, roses. Deters asparagus beetles.Improves growth. Deters carrot flies and rose beetles.
Peanuts Corn, squash Encourages growth of corn and squash.
Peas Corn Adds nitrogen to soil for use by hungry corn plants. Grows well with carrots, turnip, radish, cumcumber, beans and potatoes.
Peanut Various plants Excellent soil builder. Can make a good ground cover in a nut tree orchard.
Pennyroyal Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, other plants. Discourages ants, plant lice, cabbage maggots.
Pyrethrum Various plants Repels aphids, leafhoppers, spider mites, harlequin bugs, ticks, pickleworms and imported cabbage worms.
Radish Cucumber Deters cucumber beetles.
Rosemary Carrots, cabbage, beans Repels carrot flies, bean beetles, cabbage moths.
Rue Roses, raspberries Repels Japanese beetles.
Sage Carrots, various Repels carrot flies, cabbage moths, ticks.
Snap beans Corn Enhances growth of corn.
Soybeans Corn Enhances growth of corn and other heavy feeders by adding nitrogen to the soil. Repels chinch bugs and Japanese beetels.
Spearmint Various plants Deters ants, aphids.
Sweet pepper Basil, okra Improves growth.
Summer savory Green beans Improves growth, deters bean beetles.
Tansy Cucumber, squash, roses, grapes, raspberry, blackberry. Deters flying insects, striped cucumber beetles, ants, flies, squash bugs and Japanese beetles. BUT, attracts imported cabbageworms.
Toads (Okay, toads aren't plants--but they sure make the greatest companions to many plants.) Various plants One toad may eat as many as 10-thousand insects in a three-month period! Insects on toad's menu include cutworms, crickets, grubs, rose chafers, rose beetles, caterpillars, ants, squash bugs, sow bugs, potato beetles, moths, mosquitos, flies, slugs and even moles.
Tomato Roses Protects roses from black spot.
Thyme Cabbage Controls flea beetles, cabbage maggots, imported cabbageworms and white cabbage butterflies.
Walnut, Black Black walnut trees inhibit the growth of apples, potato, tomato, blackberry.
Wormwood Various plants Deters black flea beetles, malaria mosquitos, cabbage worm butterflies.
 


Tomato juice is said to neutralize the odor of skunk spray.

Interrupt-driven gardening

Blog
Today was a full-on gardening day. Previously, I'd been following my own advice and spending 20 minutes a day working on the yards. I had managed to clear out the side yard in three days, but today was going to be full day of working on the gardens.

Imagine having 10 cubic yards of organic compost dumped into your driveway. Better yet, here's a picture of what it looks like.

We purchased and moved 12 cubic yards of compost into the back yard garden this two years ago, to great success in the garden. 12' sunflowers with 18" heads, more food than we could eat, a billion tomatoes, yeah.

If you're in the Bay Area, and need organic compost, I highly recommend Wheeler Farm. The prices are great (about 1/3 the cost of compost from any gardening or home improvement store), and the owners fantastic.

So, moving this compost. The goal was to move it from the front driveway, to the back garden area. Full preparation of the garden involved tilling the garden, moving the compost to the garden, spreading the compost, then, if needed, tilling again.

Which is what I did.

Alone.

Kris was sick, so I ended up moving all the compost myself for today. He managed to keep the girls from bark-bark-barking at me all day, which was good. But it was a lot of work.

Even with all the compost moving, I barely made a dent in my 5 cubic yards of the 10 cubic yards in the driveway.

Took me about 4 hours to move as much as I did. It took me a while to get started because of the cascading issues for the tools.

To move the compost, I needed the wheelbarrow.

To use the wheelbarrow, I needed to dump the current compost (from my compostor) out of it.

To move that compost out, I needed to have a place to move it to.

To create a space to move the compost to, I had to cut down, clear, and move plants next to the house where they don't belong.

To cut, clear and move, I had to, well, it keeps going. I spent the first 40+ minutes cleaning up the various parts of the yard just so that I could just get going. Urf.

I still have the compost for the side yard to place. And the front yard.

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